Alan in Holiday
After our exertions of the previous day, we treated ourselves to a lie in. I awoke at 6.15 am to find that my sleeping bag and the inside of the tent were damp from condensation which had formed overnight. This was my first experience of it on this trip.
Having not seen a soul since the two intrepid switch back climbers of yesterday afternoon, we were much surprised to see a hiker, who with a quick wave, shot past our camp along the trail at 6.30 am. General consensus was that he must know the area well and wanted to conquer the switch backs prior to the day becoming hot.
Our plan for the day was to break camp and continue to the trailhead which we estimated to be about an hours walk away. Having collected our SUV we would then head into Driggs to source my new boots before leaving the SUV behind at South Teton trail head and heading up the Teton Canyon towards the Alaska Basin.
The infamous boots
Breakfasted and packed we headed off at 8.00 and by 9.15 we were at the South Leigh trail head where our SUV, stocked with additional food for the forthcoming days awaited. Whilst Dave organised the food I had an opportunity to remove the tape on my boots and undertake a closer examination.
As will be seen from the photograph they were in a terminal condition and by common consent my only hope of continuing the trek was if I could obtain new boots. Even this was not without risk as new boots are notorious for requiring "breaking in" and blisters et al would be a distinct possibility.
Back in the SUV after 3 days out in the back country the speed already seemed strange and dizzying. Heading into town Dave seemed quite optimistic that my search for new footwear would be successful suggesting that it would be preferable to purchase some lightweight non leather boots that needed no breaking in. For my part needing an English size 13 I was far from optimistic and would be amazed if they stocked any type of boot in my size.
We arrived in town going passing through Drigg's only traffic light (yes it's that big). Dave dropped Christine and I off outside the local store whilst he took the opportunity of heading off to the local post office.
Entering the store it belatedly occurred to me that I was far from presentable. I had been working hard physically, was wearing the same clothes that I started the week and had not washed or shaved for 3 days. I was not in a position to say if if I was giving off any odours, but it says something for the "sang-froid" of the two young ladies staffing the shop that they did not seem remotely surprised by my entrance or if they were they politely passed no comment. That said I had retrieved a fresh pair of sock from my backpack, so they were at least spared that.
Most surprisingly the choice of footwear on display was huge. Grasping the bull figuratively by the horns my request was simple "what was the largest lightweight boot they stocked"? Disappearing into their stock room they emerged moments later with a Merrell boot in an American size 14. Much to my surprise (and pleasure) it fitted perfectly and even the price was a very agreeable $105 (approx £60). That said, given my current circumstances, I would have paid almost any price. I exited one happy trekker as my holiday was back on track.
South Teton Trailhead
A quick visit to the local supermarket for Dave to pick up a couple of items (again another surreal experience) and we were back in our SUV heading out towards the Targhee Ski resort (nice wide modern road) before turning off onto semi dirt roads to head for South Teton trailhead.
Arriving at the trail head at 10.30 it was busy with a lot of vehicles already parked up their owners having disappeared up the trail. It was also very hot. There was also a novelty - a tap supplying fresh water, which made a change from streams and purification.
Looking at some of the trail names on the trail head board - "Devils Staircase, Hurricane Pass, Mount Meek Pass" it was quite an exciting moment as it brought my map alive and I at last felt we were heading into the Grand Teton Park proper and had left what might be considered its poor cousins behind.
Having restocked up on food our back packs were as heavy as ever. Any way of reducing the weight carried was to be welcomed and we therefore had an early lunch out of the back of the SUV before heading on up the trail.
View down Teton Canyon to trail head
Part of the fun of being on holiday is not just the scenery but also the people you meet whilst out and about. Compared to our experiences of the previous three days when we rarely met other people, this trail was akin to a walk down the high street with people of all ages, races and gender passing by.
Early on in the lower flatter reaches of the trail we met people of a "mature" age admiring the flowers, photographing the scenery and taking shade under the few trees from the fierce midday sun. We also had a procession of youngish children in pairs and carrying backpacks pass by heading down towards the trailhead. Eventually our curiosity got the better of us and we asked some girls whether they were part of a family group? It turned out that they were, that they had been camping in the Alaska Basin and that there were 28 of them in total! Although we were outside Utah we pondered how many wives this might represent and fascinated counted them past over the subsequent couple of hours.
View up towards Alaska Basin as Teton Canyon climbs and narrows
Whilst resting out of the sun we saw a family group - mum, dad, daughter and son heading like us up the trail. What was fascinating was that dad was not only wearing a backpack but he appeared to be carrying his wife's backpack as well and this quite close to the trail head. Daughter and son were carrying their own. We left them to rest and continued our way up the valley trail.
Some time later, whilst resting again, they caught us up. This time mum carrying her backpack in her arms like a baby, which struck us as more effort than wearing it. We moved on and later met them yet again, this time mum wearing her back pack. We congratulated her on her decision - "did she not find it easier when it was on her back?" Well yes she did but that was only because it was now empty!
Shortly thereafter the trail gradient increased significantly and much to our disappointment (as it was proving a fascinating diversion) we never saw them again. I can only assume that dad's idea of a family camp had finally been vetoed by mum and they had given up and headed off to the nearest hotel.
Teton River in full flow
Dave had walked this trail before and his plan was to camp alongside the Teton river further up the valley at a hidden site off the trail that he had used before, below the Alaska Basin. I was fascinated, as by this time we had left the valley floor and were climbing steeply through what appeared to be a wooded rocky ravine, occassionally bushwacking around fallen trees blocking the trail, with no locations that appeared to offer an opportunity to camp.
As good as his word after some initial problems locating the exit from the trail (an advantage as others would have the same problem) Dave found the site adjoining the river, this time carefully recording the location via his Garmin Global Positioning receiver (GPS).
If I had any criticism of the site it was that our view back down the trail was obstructed by the trees - Dave has promised to fell some trees for when we come back! So ended Thursday with the roar of a throaty river. Tomorrow onwards and upwards to the Alaska Basin.