The Great Adventure

After the luxury of two nights on the same pitch, our normal routine resumed with an early start of 6 am. It was a sad farewell to the Alaska Basin which was much higher and more spectacular than I had anticipated. After two days it felt like I was leaving home.

Packed and laden we were on the trail by 7.50 am, heading across the basin towards the climb of the  Sheep Steps leading to Mount Meek Pass (9830 ft). As we crossed the basin we came across a couple of campers and conscious of Angela and Steve's search of yesterday we checked that they were not the missing main group. Having determined not, we informed the occupants of their search. It was not quite the jungle telegraph, but I had already discovered that the sharing of information amongst hikers (especially sources of water) was most helpful and provided re-assurance on our travels.

Packed and laden once again

The weather was a disappointment and after the five days of mainly blue skies it seemed to have taken a definite turn for the worse with cloud and unseasonably cooler temperatures. For the first time whilst walking I felt the need for an additional thermal top.

I was hoping that the Death Canyon Shelf was as spectacular as anticipated and that we would find a suitable campsite on Fox Creek Pass (9610 ft). Some how I doubted that it would match the 4 star luxury of our Alaska Basin site, but in the absence of a camping permit, Death Canyon Shelf being within the Grand Teton National Park, we were committed to a minimum mileage/route and this was our only option.

First view down into Death Canyon

As we started the climb up the Sheep Steps it was overcast and gloomy which to an extent matched my mood. The climb was unmemorable being a series of rocky switch backs, multiple false summits and an increasingly chilling breeze. There was the occasional distraction of marmots and other small rodents, but no opportunity to photograph them as by the time I had unpacked my camera they had long gone.

Eventually the path opened out, the vista widened and we emerged onto Mount Meek Pass itself. The pass is more akin to a plateau and as the gradient lessened we made good progress, passing to our right the junction to the Devil's Stairs trail before entering Grand Teton National Park itself and the start of the Death Canyon Shelf.

After two hours of walking we met our first hikers of the day - a group of five "mature" American gents who were heading for Hurricane Pass. Ominously they reported that the most recent weather forecast they had heard reported a 60% chance of rain for the next two days.

We descended down onto the start of the shelf (which was not a flat as I had anticipated) and had our first view of Death Canyon 1,000 ft below to our left. As will be apparent from the photographs the shelf is a semi flat plateau running parallel to Death Canyon and adjoining range of peaks (including Mount Jedediah Smith at 11.600 ft) to the right.

Death Canyon Shelf with Death Canyon and background Teton's

As the views became more spectacular, as if taking a cue from my lightening mood, the cloud started to break and the sun put in its first appearance of the day. The temperature rose accordingly, however all was not sweetness and light as it was becoming increasingly windy.

Whilst not as heavily trafficked as the Hurricane Pass trail, moving along the shelf, we encountered a steady number of predominantly young hikers. It was interesting to observe their differing stamina, some moving apparently effortlessly whilst others struggled with their loads. I suspect that some had taken the aerial tram to Rendezvous Mountain from Teton Village and on their first day out were still adjusting to the burden of their loads and sudden change of altitude. Of course it may have been the video cameras, aluminium deck chairs and the proverbial kitchen sink that some appeared to be carrying.

We made good progress along the shelf and by 12.15 had reached its end at the junction with Death Canyon  and Fox Creek Pass trails. We enjoyed a leisurely lunch with spectacular views down into Death Canyon and back along the shelf towards the Cathedral Group and many other peaks of "only" 11,000 ft.

Head of Death Canyon, Shelf up to left

Every morsel of lunch consumed (and my pack consequently lightened) Dave disappeared to scout around for a suitable campsite. We could already see Pass Lake below to our left so our water supply was sorted, but the wind had significantly strengthened during the course of our passage along the shelf and was becoming a cause of real concern.

Dave was gone for a long time and eventually reappeared sweating profusely to report that he had found a site, but it was very much a compromise being the only flat area he could locate with reasonable shelter that was not covered in vegetation or rocks. He warned us that it certainly was not up to the standards of our Alaska Basin camp site.

Shouldering our packs we descended steeply down from the shelf, leaving the national park behind and onto the top of Fox Creek Pass. We discovered that selected site was literally at the head of the pass, nestling within the lea of two adjoining ridges, just before the entrance into the Targhee National Forest.

Pass Lake near Fox Creek Pass

Christine spotted another flat area, nearer Pass Lake which seemed more sheltered and promising until Dave pointed out that it was actually a small dry mosquitoes bed and should it rain during the night ... one reason to take a guide with local back country experience.

The head of the pass was acting as a funnel and the wind was now sufficiently strong to make pitching a tent problematical. Having eventually pitched our tents in as sheltered a position we could find (or in Christine's case re-pitched her tent as hers was in danger of being blown away in its original position) we settled down to enjoy a rest and soak up welcome sunlight.

Fox Creek Pass and our camp site

There was discussion as to our route for tomorrow and a suggestion of a morning day hike down to Marion Lake followed by breaking camp and an afternoon trek back along the Death Canyon Shelf. Also talk of a illicit camp within the national park half way back along the shelf.

However despite the sun, Dave was becoming increasingly concerned as to the weather outlook - high winds and more significantly the increasing amount of high altitude cirrus clouds flying past. These are know as  "The sentinels of an approaching storm" and are a sign not to be be ignored lightly. There was he thought a prospect of a stormy night ahead and we were at 9,610 ft.

We discussed our options. Worst case scenario should conditions significantly deteriorate was to head straight down Fox Creek Pass to the trail head (8 miles). If conditions were bearable we could head back along Death Canyon Shelf over Mount Meek Pass before turning left onto the Devil's Stairs trail which lead eventually down into Teton Canyon. 

Unsettled I rechecked the guying on my tent and searched for rocks to provide additional security to the tent pegs. The tent was already being bent by the force of the wind and I was not looking forward to a potentially wet and stormy night. 

Kitchen with shelter

Despite my sense of foreboding, the afternoon remained pleasant and as we sat enjoying the sun, we were interrupted by the occasional trekker both on two and four legs (i.e. horses). One couple who had walked the eight miles up from the Foxes Creek trail head told us that the trail, with the exception of the last mile, was very uninspiring and indeed in places  became difficult to follow requiring an element of bushwhacking. Not a good recommendation. As they were heading back to the trail head they most helpfully offered to take our accumulated bagged rubbish with them to deposit in a convenient bin.

As afternoon merged into early evening it was time for the hi-light of the hiking day - dinner. However the strength of the winds made lighting Dave's stove difficult, until he hit upon the idea of using a convenient sign as a windbreak. Our kitchen relocated an enjoyable dinner for all passed off without further incident.

After dinner, having retrieved our head torches and additional clothing, we headed a short distance back towards the head of  Death Canyon and settled down to watch a most enjoyable sunset, with views along Death Canyon and the Teton peaks.

Lengthening Shadows as sunset approaches

The sun setting and with temperatures rapidly falling we headed back to our camp and settled down to see what the night might bring. The wind continued to blow strongly and Dave very kindly provided me with a set of ear plugs to block the noise of the wind and flapping nylon of my tent.

Despite my concerns, the fresh air worked its usual magic and I soon fell into a deep sleep.  

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